Paragliding the Matterhorn: Startup to Landing

Northern Italy (ATP Finals Trip - Part 2)

Landed in Venice, the city of water.

 With ferries, I got as far West as to overlook the edge of the Adriatic Sea.

A very historic city, I wanted to witness the land of Marco Polo and complete his reverse route through Northern Italy by heading West (Part 1).

I rode the Le Frecce high-speed train to Milan for the ATP NextGen Finals - Travel Photos.

ATP NextGen Milan

That pitstop at ATP NextGen in Milan was showcasing the top young stars (aged 21 and younger). Serendipitously, I met up with the mom of our hometown San Diego Open champion Brandon Nakashima! My mother was also born in Vietnam originally.

I stayed a couple days to see the famous Domo and Last Supper. Milan is a very fashionable and hipster-friendly city

The ATP NextGen Arena location itself looked like a large indoor high school gymnasium. Lots of Italian kids and families. Fans enjoyed the flashy light and sound show. It's the junior version of the ATP Finals event.  He concluded the season by winning the tournament, beating several top players along the way.

A couple of days left before arriving for the ATP Finals in Turin...I still needed to decide where to go next. My eyes scanned the map and the weather forecast.

In that region's shoulder season, November is typically known for rain and cold weather. Not yet cold enough for snow, yet too cool for most fairweather tourists.

Enter Hemingway - Stresa, Italy on 11/11 @ 11AM

From the Stresa central train station, I made my way to an AirBnB real (modernized) Italian castle with the original exterior on 11/11 - Armistice Day. It was the day when the guns fell silent at the end of World War 1.

Overlooking the island, I spent the night across Isla Bela. It was near the hotel viewpoint where Ernest Hemingway wrote "Farewell to Arms". With no car, I decided to cover the entire area on foot. Its downhill roads weren't designed with sidewalks in mind.

The following day I decided that instead of going South back to Milan again, I would detour North towards Switzerland. Near the Italian/Swiss border was a lifetime bucket list.

The Mountain peak in the Swiss Alps called the Matterhorn was pinned with a heart. Like a siren beckoning me on my Google Maps, it called out: Matterhorn!

Paragliding for the 1st time. Soaring through Zermatt.

Mapping and Mountaineering

"No matter what you do, building a start-up will be a very challenging journey…if you don’t start with enough passion, you won’t get to the other side. If you don’t fall in love with the problem, you simply will not be able to get through the journey.” 

- Uri Levine (Co-Founder of Waze) "Fall in Love with the Problem" (2023)

The key luck factor was the weather forecast. It was nothing short of a miracle in November to get clear skies and 50s a high temperature! With just a short 48-hour window, it was now or never. Time to go for it.

Eagle's Nest

I booked a last-minute little AirBnB. One only crazy backpackers (or last-minute cowboys like me) would even consider. With this once-in-a-lifetime chance, the detour is the adventure. The Obstacle is the Way.

This began the first leg of many to reach Zermatt (basecamp for the Matterhorn). Several trains, buses, shuttles, and 2 lifts later - I would reach snow. The start of a long hike to reach the final jump point.

Lost in Translation

At Stresa's main train station, nobody was working at 6:30 AM. I had to rely on using the automated Italian train ticket machine. I typed in my destination, "ZERMATT." The error screen flashed back "No route found". I tried several times again with the same result: "No route found." Uh oh.

I pulled up Google Maps again and saw I'd have to make a few transfers. Maybe this system would only take me halfway? Reaching Zermatt would take a few different national transportation systems (an Italian Train, then a Swiss Train). I ate a quick Italian cafe breakfast sandwich, then waited outside.

It had two platforms - A and B.

15 minutes left. Still no staff working yet inside the station. Nobody was even inside the window counter. So I go outside seeking assistance from one of the other passengers who would likely know. I found one Italian lady also waiting. She stood confident, posed like a regular daily rider.

Me: Excusi. This train? To Brig? (pointing to Google Translate)
Her: "Brig? No, you need to take the other platform..."

She pointed me to go to the other side.

Unfortunately, that "other platform" was for regional trains only. My 30 Euro ticket was supposed to be the express one. But because of common rail delays (I was told), it would be running 15 minutes behind schedule that morning. This is where things start going South.

So I even check the printed train schedule on the sign post. It listed train's arrival at Stresa with the departure times. The difference was only 4 minutes off from the ticket's actual time. Close enough, or so I thought...

Getting on the Wrong Train

So the Platform B train arrived. I hopped on. Immediately I should have noticed something was wrong. The creeky rail car doors were so old it barely even slid wide open as one rider tried getting off. Inside, the car was nearly empty. Dusty windows, like those from an old black and white movie.

Leaving my bags there, I headed to the front of the train for help. I don't see anyone. I needed to get off! Maybe I could still run back to the station and get back in time? With my luggage too? No way.

Hopping forward, the train's next adjacent 4-5 cars were equally vacant. I slid open cart doors, one after another. All identical. Empty. With a knot in my stomach, I quickly realized that this was the regional train! It would require at least 8 more stops to go. Definitely missing my transfer in 30 minutes.

Upon reaching the first rail car, I found an elderly gentleman who spoke English. He put down his newspaper and kindly explained the train I should have been on was platform A. He looked at his watch - yes it should be passing us soon.

There, he pointed at the much newer, much faster, speeding white blur that was my train overtaking us. I thought the tortoise always wins?

My best option was to stay on until the main station.
I could rebook once I arrived at the main junction town of Domodossola.

Accepting my fate, I sat back down and enjoyed all the little towns and cows along the way.

Switzerland's Ride to Ski Resorts

After my transfer from Brig to Riga, I noticed a big contrast between the surroundings.

This was Swiss ski country!

It was still early in the season, yet so many passengers were going there for a weekend mountain getaway.

The Italian train staff at the station advised me that I need not bother with a refund. Just show them your (Trenitalia) stub; she assured me it should be fine. Nope.

Swiss trains were noticeably cleaner, quieter, and well-staffed.

Clear, large-paned windows reveal Nature's glory.

Tickets, please!

Young train staff stood posted at the SBB red trains. No getting around them. They wore satchel bags, serving as mobile kiosks. They were well-armed with point-of-sale card readers around their necks and pockets full of literature. I showed them my old stub and explained the simple mistake. But they weren't messing around.

Sorry. You can't board Swiss trains with Italian tickets.

Ah, lost in translation. I took out some Euros.

From all these extra detours, I lost some weight. So did my wallet. :)

On board the train, I received an Airbnb text from my host.
I had notified him that I'd be running an hour behind schedule.

The text reads:
"no problem."
"Hey, do you still want to go paragliding?"
"the paragliding pilot, Bruno, will meet you at Grampi’s."

My host knew a local guide named "Bruno" who could take guests up if the weather permitted. For days, we had exchanged messages. This flight option would be only possible if wind conditions were favorable. It was essential to check the local weather forecast from Tarasch or Zermatt, not outside.

Apparently, fate wanted me to go fly on that day.

(Skip to Story: Bruno and the Air Taxi)

Scaling up is one part Grit - but two parts Audacity.

Arriving is easy. Anyone can enter a gift shop.

Overpay for a logo magnet or postcard, and say you were there.

The rich come to the ski resort town of Zermatt and take a lift ticket straight to the top. Reaching it on foot, like my Stanford mentor did as a youth - is another matter.

Fundraising angel or seed capital rounds takes enormous perseverance.
It is an ice-cold wind tunnel test of facing repeated hurdles, uncertainty, and rejection.

With previous large group vacation planning over the years, I had wasted so much time. Pitching, explaining, educating, and then trying to persuade others to bring them along. You'll never make everyone happy - nobody is born an avocado.

Change is hard. New is risky.

Due Diligence

To truly separate between the hype and the reality requires you to put boots on the ground with due diligence. In March 2021, I flew red-eye from San Diego to Miami cross-country to arrive Day 1 for the filming and meet the entire film crew of TopCourt. Pitch Decks only tell you so much.

You need to go the extra mile and be able to bring yourself there. Show that you're willing to grind out the hours alongside the team to understand how operations work. No armchair QB's if you're in it with your own post-tax dollars.

CES 2023 Eureka Park - Gallery of Flops - the Startup Graveyard

In the book "Cold Start Problem," Andrew Chen describes the hundreds of thousands of new startups in the US annually. Linking sufficient self-propelling supply (the Hard Side) with increasing demand is often the challenge in Network Models.

Imagine it's like empowering the East and West coast teams of the Transcontinental Railroad to connect at Promontory, Utah. Done successfully, it linked the two halves of America, its coast, and thus also a nation.

Solving the Hard Side: building the first Unicorn - the steel Horse and the magic Horn.

“Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better.” - Beckett

How many strangers or VCs will take the plunge with you? Can you get sustainable funding. Will you continue to iterate, test, fail, and repeat as long as it takes?

The "Desert of no Traction" - Saraha of Startups.

After the honeymoon phase, there are sometimes long lulls. Weeks or months where revenue flatlines. This period tests the Founder's heart. You are sometimes blind with no good KPIs to find progress.

At that point, you can only put one foot in front of the other - day in and day out. Until you finally hike it out alive or your cash tank runs dry. This is the sacred test of the Soul of a start-up.

Beware of false promises - the checks that can't be cashed.

Some will tell you that your idea sounds good when you're presenting. Then disappear. Nobody doubts your conviction. But when it comes to crunch time, how many would put down their own money to go on that one-way ticket with you? How small things are handled is often a microcosm of the large decisions. 

"If you don't like extreme sports, maybe a start-up is not for you" (Uri Levine, page 36)
 

Don't listen to the naysayers and fearmongers - they reject you, then ignore you, then fear you.
Anchors are everywhere - ready to ground you down to their level.
Prepare for people ready to tell you it won't work and why you're crazy.

"People don't like change, and your new start-up is a change." - Levine

Gathering light feathers for a pair of wings.
Build a solid team that reinforces the other like bonding glue.

It takes a leap of faith, some luck, and being able to endure the long ride.

You must risk stepping off the safe path and go forging into the wild.
The secrets of real discovery await you in these dark woods (of Tal).

"The door is going to open for a slipt second. 

Whether you choose to jump through it or not, it's not going to be there very long." 

- James Cameron (MasterClass)

Before the trip, I saw the 14-day forecast. I knew I only had a 25% chance of making a launch window. I did not even book any lounging plans ahead of time. I did not know after Milan if there would be another change of plans. It's the dreaded equivalent of a "rain delay" for tennis.

Often, the Alps forecast is grey with a rainy mix of gloom in November.

The Christmas Markets would be a couple weeks away.
I studied the forecasts and had a backup route if things go wrong.

Always understand the odds, kid - even if you end up ignoring them. (yes, Hans Solo)

Tennis Vacation: Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters 1000 in Monaco

Each April, I would set my alarm to wake up early on Sunday when it was time to watch Rafael Nadal. He would play whoever else was the other finalist.  I remember sitting at home and tuning into Tennis Channel, glued to seeing clay court genius in full glory. I was so used to hearing the Spanish National Anthem played every Sunday in April.

Memories of Monaco

The Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters 1000 was always the leadoff tournament on the road to Roland Garros - the unofficial start of Spring Tennis in Europe.

Balcony view at sunrise over the tennis courts

Monte-Carlo Country Club (MCCC)

The grandeur of the principality in Monaco.
The royalty in attendance.
The elegance of the ocean coast.

The beauty of the clay courts.
Residence to many tennis stars.
Wealthy elites line "Billionaire's row" at the M.C.C.C.

The Famous Monte-Carlo Poster

Back in 2017, on a trip to Vietnam with my parents, I saw the Monte Carlo poster below.

This poster at the NYC passport office inspired me to visit one day!

It was inside a passport office in Manhattan. I was delayed 24 hours in NYC after I lost my passport at JFK. Retracing my steps in every terminal and shuttle for hours, I had only my driver's license and was in another state. I weighed my options and decided to sleep there - my 2nd time overnight at a NY airport. Then in the morning, took the first train to Manhattan to apply for a new one when the office opened.

There it was, the Monte-Carlo poster (pictured below) hanging on the wall at a passport office in NYC. Fortunately, a half-day later I was able to get back to JFK and continue that SE Asia trek. But I knew it was a sign from the tennis gods I had to go pay my respects one day to this small strip of land by the sea.

In 2018, I arrived in Monte-Carlo via Zurich - during the Snowman Spring Festival - Sächsilüüte.

The typical recommendation is to fly into Nice, France, get an Airbnb near the train station, and then take the daily train ride a few stops to the tournament location.

Private balcony overlooking the MCCC

I thought wouldn't it be nice to stay somewhere you could see the tournament from one of those balconies they film above the tournament even for just a couple nights?

For memories of a lifetime, it was worth a shot and a worthwhile business investment.

Above is a satellite view with my AirBnB reservation highlighted in the purple box. Since it was my first (and possibly last chance to go), I had to check if this opportunity was possible. The daily lodging prices in the area during the tennis tournament were usually around $600-$1000 USD/night.

I searched for accommodations near the tournament and noticed there was one duplex with an amazing balcony that overlooked the clay courts! Confirming on Google Maps and various angles, I made sure.

As a fellow Airbnb host, I chatted with Jessica, the vacation homeowner from Milan. Offering some freelance photography and marketing skills, I was able to secure a very sweet deal at her vacation home for a couple of nights it would be vacant. It was a dream location and the ideal private spot for any tennis super fan. If interested in a stay during the tennis event, feel free to contact me.

The views as you can see are breathtaking. I could hear and see the tennis action from the balcony. Each morning, I would wake up before sunset to capture some time-lapse videos.

Beautiful to watch the cruise ships sail into port and drop off passengers at the famous Casino de Monte-Carlo made famous in the James Bond movie Goldeneye.

Airbnb Condo in Monaco - Welcome to the roof's top deck

Walking down the hill to the Monte Carlo Country Club

Stopping along the way for food at breakfast and lunch

Practice Court view from the clay ground level

Court de Princes - side stadium court

Monte-Carlo Tennis Ball from the pro practice session

Courtside watching Marin Čilić and Fernando Verdasco (video clip)

Rafael Nadal - King of Clay

Canadian Teachers - #1 Rafa super fan on the right

Rafa's sister (?) at the Rafa Nadal Academy booth

Rafael Nadal Academy Booth

I spoke to a very pretty blonde girl at the booth. Some remarked she looked like Rafa's sister - I wasn't sure at the time. She suggested that I go check it out in the Autumn after summer break is over and the kids are back in school. 

She noted it is usually less crowded if I wanted to write a review or recommend tennis students to go visit. I ended up visiting the Academy after the Barcelona tournament the following year.

My promo code "JCTENNIS" gives you 10% OFF at the Mallorca HQ.

In 2021, they announced new Rafa summer camps coming to the USA this June and July 2021 in Philadelphia, Chicago, and Miami. My "JCTENNIS" discount code works for Miami on July 12-17.

Exploring Monaco

Go here to get the official Monaco Seal stamp on your Passport!

French Riviera - Nice, Antibe, Cannes 

Nice, France is a beautiful seaside town a hand full of train stops away. For a few hours, I signed up for a really fun Segway tour and enjoyed it very much with a group of young students. A great way to get up and down the steep hills and explore a lot of ground in a few hours.

Red, white, and blue lighted dancing fountains

A very scenic and laid-back coastal town - Nice offers many shops, museums, and parks. A great way to spend any Spring afternoon or catch the sunset by the ocean.

At night, there are plenty of delicious French restaurants with street performers playing music outdoors.

With an extra few days in Frace, I took day trips to nearby Antibes and other port cities on the French Riviera. If you're shopping for beautiful yachts on the water, there is always plenty to see everywhere. 

I caught this golden sunrise photo after arriving at Antibes and surveying the old castle walls that surround the old city.

On the last day of my trip, I overheard that there would be a Red Bull air race taking place in Cannes. Normally this is where the red-carpet events are held for the Cannes Film Festival. That year Solo was shown early at the festival.

The red bull air race was going to be the first-ever in France, so after dropping off my bags at the airport, I decided to go attend the event for a few hours. Why not? When in France!

Transportation from the airport and back was a bit of a mess but I am really glad I took a chance and got to go check it out for the day. All event drinks and merchandise had cashless payments. When walking down the beach, you could see large crowds gather to see the fast planes race around the pylons with their smoke trails.

Cannes - Red Bull - Air Race

Overall, an excellent tennis trip week plus extra tourist time on the Cote d'Azur!

Media Photos of Monte Carlo Tennis

Here's another tennis (Federer) fan's perspective of MCCC @ perfect-tennis.

In 2017, I was in Rome at the Italian Open for that clay-court season.

Amazing memories and debatably the best clay-court Masters 1000 event?

The Road to Rafa Part 1: Madrid Spain

10 years later...we revisit the trip to Madrid and Spain

In 2022, I was a Madrid Open media credentialed photographer.All tennis fans should come visit Madrid! Explore the marvelous medieval capital of Spain.

Enjoy a delicious tapas tour - with fellow international tennis fans

Top Highlights of Madrid

• Beautiful Day trips with fans, friends, and family-friendly vacations
• Visit world-famous parks, museums, and towns in the morning.
• Eat a late dinner then enjoy more exciting tennis at night!
• High-speed AVE trains and modern metro system make it very tourist-friendly.

Photos:

• Madrid Open 1000 - media photos
  (ATP and WTA) - with Alcaraz, Nadal, Djokovic
  
  
• Segovia, Avila, and Toledo - Google day trip photos
  
  

"Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the places and moments that take our breath away."- Anonymous

(Read Part 1: European Tennis Dream - a tennis tour story)

Madrid

On the first leg of my tour, I wanted to start by exploring Nadal's true natural element...his raison d'etre...the Spain that he loves and the element of Clay. This is what made him famous for the title "the King of Clay".

There are only nine Master Series 1000 Tournaments each year. They are second only in size and scope only to the four majors. Of these 9 Master tournaments, only 3 of them are on Clay. It just so happened that one was scheduled to be held in Madrid, Spain just the following week. The perfect storm...

In 2016, I was granted my Media Credential to cover the Italian Open in Rome (the Eternal City). Witnessed Roger, Rafa, and Djokovic plus Stan Wawrinka with his plaid shorts a few months before he won the French Open. 

In 2018, I finally completed the ATP clay tour trifecta at the Monte Carlo Masters. With an amazing friend's help, I awoke each morning overlooking the French Rivera and the legendary Monaco courts.

In 2022, I worked alongside ATP Media, Amazon Prime, and Tournament's Media Team. The tournament is featured in Netflix's "Break Point" - Episode 4: Great Expectations

Serendipity - in Madrid

   

It was summer, the clay season was in full stride, Rafa was dominating the European clay court season (Monte Carlo, Barcelona, Rome). This was going to be perfect, I told myself. This is the year I would tour Europe.

I quickly arranged to buy tickets for the tournament as I knew I would be there just in time for the weekend finals.  When you scramble with that first inspired idea, it grabs a hold of you and reels you in.  I think half the fun of a great adventure is planning it all out and having points were you can deviate and seek alternative options in your travel.

Tours are the most confining way of travel - I rather plan my own itinerary. I like to roam around and walk, see the least trodden paths for myself...

(Read the rest of this chapter: Madrid Open...Barcelona)

The Madrid Open

Redesigned from what was originally an indoor court winter tournament to an indoor clay court event with the first-ever retractable roof of its kind.  Called the "Caja Majic" or Magic Box - it is a wonder of engineering that glows and the players' safety cave should it ever rain. The views are amazing and you get a real feel of the crowd's energy when inside.

    

One problem: the tournament's website was completely written in Spanish!  Luckily, I found tickets on sale at Viagogo that go on sale, sometimes below box office prices. I even was able to secure the last seat available along the baseline for the Nadal vs Federer Finals. The women's final is also included in the event ticket, between Safina and Wozniacki.

Just remember to notify your bank or credit card that you will be traveling abroad to these countries first, because the online ticket systems may block your purchase.

The other courts are also well lined up for easy spectator access. Lots of fans dot the scene, and even the Spanish Prince showed up to cheer on Rafa that day.

The electricity and energy in the air had the feeling of a world cup or European soccer (aka football) match, with the rows dotted with red seats and yellow hats.

 The chants of "Vamos Rafa!" and "Viva El Toro!" (Nadal's nickname) could be heard all around and outside the stadium.

Clay court tennis in Europe has a very different feel than the hard courts of North America. If you are a true tennis fan, I highly recommend seeing one live and combining a mini-vacation with it so you can truly appreciate the Art, Architecture, and History of this capital*

Madrid Parks and Sights

The Bull-fighting in Madrid carries on a tradition that has been passed down for hundreds of years. You can find daily tours of this Plaza del Toro epic arena (the 2nd largest in the entire World) and is definitely worth it to see the magnificent horses and bulls there. You can even try on a matador costume and pose with the other young tourists. to the Picasso Museum nestled in the Gothic quarters of Barcelona, there are many small streets and alleys to admire the architecture. If you get hungry, it is easy to grab small tapas or enjoy paella (seafood with rice) at a local restaurant; I was eager to experience Nadal's homeland of Spain both as a traveler and as a tennis fan.

This is a wonderful capital city with a lot of beautiful parks full of young adults enjoying the summer outdoors. Outside the famous Prado Museum (Museo del Prado) are artisans and musicians displaying their crafts outside while crowds of tourists and young college students lounged on the grassy courtyard or under the trees. The weather was absolutely perfect for early summer. I found Spain to be the most friendly towards young travelers for the 20s and 30s tourist crowd among all of the Western European countries during my tour.

Inside there are works of art that date back for many centuries. I found Spain to be an amazing country, full of vibrant culture and life. The people are very friendly, jovial and welcoming to Americans.

The Mc'D menu there is very different from state side. They have more biscuits and chicken on the menu. It is the food of choice for the youth (teenagers and early 20's). It was the most affordable meal over there too.

While there, I also got a chance to see the Plaza Manor area both in the day and its lively nightlife after dark. In Spain, they all eat rather late (after 8pm) so it took me a few days to get accustomed - sometimes, I would be the first patron having "a late lunch" at some of these locations.

The people are all very kind even when they did not understand any English, they would encourage me to describe or even use gestures to describe what I wanted. It was all very sincere, and I was pleasantly surprised that they would go this extra mile for a foreign stranger looking for a cheap bite to eat. They also have a custom of providing an empty glass with every bottled drink they sell - whether it was be water or orange juice or wine.


Next stop:

Part 2: Barcelona and the Sanchez-Casal academy

(Tennis training hub of Europe)

Read more about my Tennis Travels.

The Roadmap to Rafa - Summer in Europe

• Prologue: The Journey Begins with a Dream...
  
• Madrid, Spain (Mutua Madrid Open): Nadal vs Federer Final on Clay
• Barcelona (Sanchez-Casal Academy): Training next to a French Open Champion
• Paris (French Open): I sat 3 rows behind Rafa
• London (Wimbledon): Church on Grass
• Rome (Italian Open + Vatican): the Soul of Tennis People

One Tennis Pilgrimage - sharing my own chapters...from the modern gospel of Tennis.
Stories from this Tennis Player's "Camino de Santiago" trail - 2021 was a Holy Year.